Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 92. Lemon Tree

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Lemon Tree

92. Lemon Tree
This prim and proper dining room served Peruvian food before Peruvian food was cool. Galvanically tart ceviches, mussels on the half shell sparkling with a confetti of corn kernels, cilantro, red onion and aji chiles — these are the keen-edged flavors and textures in which chef-owner Hugo Mendizabal trades. He can do comforting, too, whether in the form of a graceful shrimp chowder (chupe de camarones) with a soft-boiled egg, or the Tacu-Tacu platter, a lively jumble of fried rice, stir-fried beef and a couple of fried eggs on top. There are some rough edges and some dishes that don’t translate for a mainstream audience, but this little place is the real homey deal — right down to the pretty house-made cakes and tortes. Bonus: it’s BYOB.
Cuisine: Peruvian
Entree price range: $$
Where: 12591 Whittington Dr.
Phone: 281-556-0390
Web: thelemontreeonline.com

 

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