El Gran Malo
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Dimitre Dimitrov, left, Lea McKinney and Steve Sharma, owners of El Gran Malo, pose for a portrait in the main dining room of the restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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The strawberry infused tequila, and cucumber margarita is shown at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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The Julio Caesar Salad is shown at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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The strawberry infused tequila, and cucumber margarita is shown at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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The kitchen of El Gran Malo can be seen through a wall-sized chalkboard Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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The Sinister Shrine is shown surrounded by jars of tequila being infused with various flavors at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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Flavor infused tequila are lined up behind the bar at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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A torta, El Gran Malo's version of the hamburger, is shown at the restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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(For the Chronicle/Gary Fountain, March 13, 2012) A new drink called "Joan Harris," created by Matt Bradshaw, bar manager at El Gran Malo. The drink was created for the sexy secretary character of Joan Harris, and marks the new season of "Mad Men."
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The snapper, pork belly and carnitas tacos are shown at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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Flavor infused tequila are lined up behind the bar at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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Chips and queso are shown with a blueberry, jalapeño, cilantro margarita are shown at El Gran Malo restaurant Tuesday, Oct. 25, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
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(For the Chronicle/Gary Fountain, March 13, 2012) Matt Bradshaw, bar manager at El Gran Malo, with the drink he created called the "Joan Harris." The drink was created for the sexy secretary character of Joan Harris, and marks the new season of "Mad Men."
89. El Gran Malo
In Houston, the gastropub trend expresses itself as Gulf Coastal (Beaver’s), South Asian (Queen Vic) and now, at Gran Malo — “The Big Bad” — as Texican. In a rakishly folk-arty room, the self-styled “gastrocantina” offers a short, smart menu devised by former Voice chef Greg Lowry (now of Triniti), along with a fascinating roster of 100 percent agave tequilas infused with mostly local ingredients. It’s a gimmick that works surprisingly well, whether in a margarita shaken with tequila flavored with kaffir lime leaf, or in a dusky, resonant shot suffused with Chinese squash and charred lemon. Along with sprightly tacos, fine queso and a formidable torta burger, watch for seasonal tequila infusions dreamed up by the Houston chefs who haunt the place.
Cuisine: Tex-Mex
Entree price range: $
Where: 2307 Ella Blvd.
Phone: 832-767-3405
Web: elgranmalo.com






















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