Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 86. Beaver’s Icehouse

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Beaver's Icehouse

86. Beaver’s Icehouse
It’s got a postage-stamp-sized kitchen, but this latter-day icehouse goes above and beyond its original barbecue-and-cocktails mission. The thoughtful cocktails remain primo and there’s excitement in the daily specials done in a multi-culti New Gulf Coastal mode: smoked duck in red curry; shrimp nachos with smoked habañero salsa; fried Gulf fish with grits-n-greens. It’s all done with macho swagger and size, a legacy from former chef Jonathan Jones, who wrote the playbook on that genre back in his Max’s Wine Dive days. Here, it lives on.
Cuisine: American
Entree price range: $$
Where: 2310 Decatur St.
Phone: 713-864-2328
Web: beavershouston.com

 

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