Coppa
Spaghetti Carbonera is topped with an egg at the new Coppa Ristorante Italiano.
A plate of Bucatini alla Amatriciana is shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
Spaghetti Carbonara, includes salami, egg yolk, black pepper, parmesan cream, is served at the new restaurant Coppa on Wednesday, Sept. 14, 2011, in Houston. ( Mayra Beltran / Houston Chronicle )
Chef Brandi Key poses for a portrait in the kitchen at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
Giardino, it includes carrots, radish, fennel, golden beets, tomato, red onion, grean bean, mushroom, zuchini, argula, herb vinaigrette, is served at the new restaurant Coppa on Wednesday, Sept. 14, 2011, in Houston. ( Mayra Beltran / Houston Chronicle )
Sausage Pizza at Coppa Ristorante Italiano.
A menu board hanging from the wall is seen at Coppa Ristorante Italiano Saturday, Aug. 27, 2011, in Houston. (Cody Duty / Houston Chronicle )
Spaghetti Carbonara, includes salami, egg yolk, black pepper, parmesan cream, is served at the new restaurant Coppa on Wednesday, Sept. 14, 2011, in Houston. ( Mayra Beltran / Houston Chronicle )
The exterior of Coppa Ristorante Italiano is seen Monday August 29, 2011, in Houston. (Cody Duty / Houston Chronicle )
A plate of pasta carbonara is shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
A Roman Holiday, sparkling wine with vanilla fig syrup and fresh fig is seen at Coppa Ristorante Italiano Saturday, Aug. 27, 2011, in Houston. (Cody Duty / Houston Chronicle )
Coppa "ham & eggs", spicy air-dried pork shoulder, and quail eggs, is served at the new restaurant Coppa on Wednesday, Sept. 14, 2011, in Houston. ( Mayra Beltran / Houston Chronicle )
Main dinning area at the new restaurant Coppa on Wednesday, Sept. 14, 2011, in Houston. ( Mayra Beltran / Houston Chronicle )
A lemon semifreddo dessert is shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
A plate of assorted cookies are shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
Fritto misto is shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
A plate of octopus carpaccio is shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
A plate of pumpkin ravioli with cranberry, pumpernickel croutons and brown butter is shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
A plate of pumpkin ravioli with cranberry, pumpernickel croutons and brown butter is shown at Coppa Restorante Italiano Friday, Dec. 16, 2011, in Houston. ( Brett Coomer / Houston Chronicle )
Among the enticements at the new Coppa Ristorante Italiano is Fritto Misto.
Tuscan Kale Salad (kale, pine nuts, golden raisins, ciabatta croutons and tuna conserva) at Coppa Ristorante Italiano in Houston. Chef: Brandi Key.
Spaghetti with Cauliflower and Coppa from "Molto Batali: Simple Family Meals from My Home to Yours" by Mario Batali.
"The Peggy," a cocktail based on the character Peggy Olson from "Mad Men." The cocktail was created by Coppa Ristorante bartender Kris Sowell.
83. Coppa Ristorante Italiano
At this sprawling pasta-and-pizza spot from Clark/Cooper Concepts, chef Brandi Key deftly walks a tightrope, pleasing her customers, her corporate masters and herself. On the plate, she values homespun textures and flavors; keen small touches of agro-dolce; the grounding presence of greens and vegetables. Her simpler pastas shine, from the red-peppery zip of Bucatini Amatriciana to the house-made pumpkin ravioli with brown butter and rough-edged pumpernickel croutons. Her grilled-romaine Caesar and lively kale salad are the stuff of which cravings are made. Her all-beef meatballs would take the blue ribbon at a state fair. Despite some early bobbles, I’m betting her restaurant is on the way up.
Cuisine: Italian
Entree price range: $$-$$$
Where: 5555 Washington Ave.
Phone: 713-426-4260
Web: copparistorante.com
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