Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 82. Taqueria Laredo

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Taqueria Laredo

82. Taqueria Laredo
It’s the pillowy flour tortillas made in-house at these democratic taquerias that transform the steam-tabled fillings into tacos of beauty. Whether you’re at the rickety Snover at Washington location or the jollier, rainbow-hued Patton at Quitman store, you can’t go wrong with the eggs scrambled with nopales (sauteed cactus pads) or the shreddy-soft weekend barbacoa livened with pico de gallo. A wildly diverse crowd waits in the cafeteria-counter lines to tell the taco ladies what they want rolled up to order, whether it be chopped, crisped fajita meat or chile-spiked pollo con calabaza (a homey stew of chicken and squash). You’ll have to bring cash because that’s all they take, but you won’t need much of it.
Cuisine: Tex-Mex, Mexican
Entree price range: $
Irvington: 6904 Irvington, 713-699-4441
Washington Ave.: 915 Snover St., 713-861-7279
Moody Park: 311 Patton St., 713-695-0504

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