Ristorante Cavour
The Italianate fantasyland of the grounds at Hotel Granduca and Ristorante Cavour.
Insalata del Granduca, from Ristorante Cavour's lunch menu, wears a jaunty breadstick and a fine champagne vinaigrette.
Pumpkin and mascarpone cheesecake with persimmon puree at Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca.
Panna cotta dessert with just a fraction of its fruit garnishes at Ristorante Cavour.
The Italianate fantasyland of the grounds at Hotel Granduca and Ristorante Cavour.
The Piedmont beef filet with pancetta and blood orange is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
Real linen, soft colors and plush upholstery set the tone for the dining room at Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca.
Quail stuffed with foie gras and truffle with a blueberry risotto is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
Poached orata (dorade) in a bergamot broth with spring vegetables, at Ristorante Cavour.
Insalata Caprese with buffalo mozzarella and heirloom tomatoes, at Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca.
Creme br l e at Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca.
The dining room at Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca at Uptown Park.
Interior of Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca.Credit: Hotel Granduca
The apple crumble desert is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
The apple crumble desert is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
The spinach and ricotta ravioli is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
Saffron risotto with bone marrow, prawn, gold leaf and licorice at Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca.
The Piedmont beef filet with pancetta and blood orange is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
A table setting is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
The main dining room is seen, Thursday, April 12, 2012 at Ristorante Cavour in Houston, Texas. (TODD SPOTH FOR THE CHRONICLE)
79. Ristorante Cavour
With its soft-hued bandbox of a dining room, its real linens and patinated gleams of gold and silver, Ristorante Cavour in the Hotel Granduca is a luxurious throwback to what fine dining used to be. Steep prices and all, it’s a serene Italianate fantasy bubble, and the old-school Italian menu by Tuscan chef Renato de Pirro has a certain meticulous charm. His house-made seasonal pastas are particularly fine, from a lasagnette with duck ragu and cheese fonduta to impeccably made ravioli of spinach and ricotta that have real presence and authority. Seasonal fish and Piemontese beef dishes are good choices, as are the risottos — including a showy number featuring crisped blobs of bone marrow and a whole prawn draped in a crinkly jacket of gold leaf. The downside? The dining room is not run as well as it should be at these prices, and the wine service for a costly but interesting list is distressingly poor.
Cuisine: Italian
Entree price range: $$$$
Where: 1080 Uptown Park Blvd.
Phone: 713-418-1104
Web: granducahouston.com
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