Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 74. Asia Market

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Asia Market

74. Asia Market
This homey mom-and-pop neighborhood joint on the fringe of the Heights is the very model of an ethnic market that morphs into a restaurant, too. The kitchen in the back, with its battered array of pots, sends forth an array of spirited, rough-hewn Thai dishes that haven’t been filtered to suit mainstream American tastes. Stellar glass noodle salad (yum vun sen), panang chicken curry with tiny Thai eggplants and a broad-noodle toss of pad kee mao with basil are prime for takeout or eating in at the handful of tables set among the grocery aisles. Pork larb, Thai-style som tom (a green papaya salad with dried shrimp) and pad Thai Ayutthaya style deliver plenty of bang for the buck, but order them “hot” instead of “Thai-hot” if you value your life.
Cuisine: Thai
Entree price range: $
Where: 1010 W. Cavalcade St.
Phone: 713-863-7074
Web: asiamarket-hou.com

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