Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 72. Soto’s Cantina

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Soto's Cantina

72. Soto’s Cantina
Chef Juan Soto and his brothers bring a very Houstonian blend of Mex and Tex-Mex to their nicely appointed restaurant on the Northwest side. In a Texas vernacular cottage fitted out with folk art and galvanized wainscoting, they serve some of Houston’s best fajitas: lime-sparked and smoky, they need few embellishments to make an impression when wrapped in stretchy house-made flour tortillas. Everything from filmy-battered chiles rellenos to enchiladas (green, sour cream or regulation Tex Mex) is well-prepared here, and the pork tamales bathed in red chile gravy are splendid. So, for that matter, are the shrimp al diablo in chipotle sauce; or the idiosyncratic salad of grilled pineapple and queso fresco.
Cuisine: Tex-Mex, Mexican
Entree price range: $$
Where: 10609 Grant Road
Phone: 281-955-5667
Web: sotoscantina.com

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