Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 70. Kenny & Ziggy’s

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Kenny & Ziggy's

70. Kenny & Ziggy’s
In Houston’s delicatessen desert, Kenny & Ziggy’s is an oasis. The simple chicken soup alone, shimmering with tiny golden dots of delicious fat, has life-giving properties with a bonus in the form of a high and downy matzoh ball. Towering triple-decker sandwiches tilt with stacks of lush, house-smoked pastrami or the cool softness of delicately gelatinous tongue. Smoked fish platters of Nova salmon and sable are nicely sourced. Even the pickles — sour or half-sour alike — are an event here. The home-style cookery is iffier, tilting hard toward the sweet. To compensate, you might want to order things like the New York cheesecake or cheese blintzes plain, without any sauce.
Cuisine: American, deli
Entree price range: $$
Where: 2327 Post Oak Blvd.
Phone: 713-871-8883
Web: kennyandziggys.com

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