Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 61. Cafe TH

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Cafe TH

61. Cafe TH
By sheer force of personality, chef-owner and natural-born host Minh Nguyen transforms his EaDo banh mi and noodle shop into a warm, homespun restaurant that’s like nothing else in town. By day, he dispenses carefully made baguette sandwiches, the standout featuring cloud-light pork meatballs (xiu mai), and such treats as surprisingly good vegan pho or gorgeous made-to-order Autumn rolls, their cool rice paper wrapped around coins of Chinese sausage, jicama, herbs and vermicelli. His rustic turnip pancake (banh bot chien) ranks as a destination dish. By night, on Thursdays and Fridays only, white tablecloths and subdued lighting transform the space into a BYOB bistro with a three-course prix fixe menu for a bargain $20. Choices might include gently spiced spareribs, a stout Vietnamese pancake folded around chargrilled pork and herbs, with finger bananas fried in a crunchy batter for dessert. With a backdrop of Big Band Swing, marimba music and Minh’s entertaining patter, it’s a delightful experience.
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Entree price range: $
Where: 2108 Pease St.
Phone: 713-225-4766

 

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