In Spanish, the name means “wise guy,” which captures the devil-may-care singularity of this open-air Channelview taqueria compound. Scented with smoke from mesquite charcoal and set with a wild variety of tables and chairs set under makeshift pavilions, this eccentric environment makes for a peak Houston dining experience. Moist chickens spurting fat under their snappy skins sputter on the charcoal grill, and on weekends, vertical trompos capped with whole pineapples twirl pyramids of achiote-daubed pork al pastor. Besides that splendid chicken, the tacos to get are the puerco asado in an earthy guajillo stew; the funky lengua; and the miraculous chilitos rellenos, mini poblanos stuffed with white cheese and fried in a filmy batter. Aguas frescas of pineapple, tamarind or hibiscus are particularly gentle and lovely. A bouncy castle, swing set and service by helpful young people in orange T-shirts heightens the sense that you’ve escaped to Camp Taco.
Entree price range: $
Where: 620 Sheldon Road in Channelview