Roost
The Date and Walnut Cake, with saffron-rose water ice cream, and honey syrup served at Roost in the Montrose. ( Karen Warren / 29-95 )
A vintage typ writer with Roost restaurant's story typed on it. ( Nick de la Torre / 29-95 )
Roost's pan-seared wahoo with home made kimchee. ( Nick de la Torre / 29-95 )
The dining room at Roost. ( Alison Cook / 29-95 )
Roost's Bread Service of sour dough bread with home made whiped butter and Karbachi beer., Wednesday, Feb. 15, 2012, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / 29-95 )
Chicken liver mousse with parsley oil at Roost. ( Alison Cook / 29-95 )
Duck with rye bread panzanella salad at Roost. ( Alison Cook / 29-95 )
Gulf fish of the day with tzatziki as served at Roost. ( Alison Cook / 29-95 )
The dining room at Roost. ( Alison Cook / 29-95 )
Kevin Naderi is the chef / owner of Roost. ( Karen Warren / 29-95 )
The "Pork and Beans", crispy pork belly, white bean ragout, duck rillette, and pancetta served at Roost in the Montrose. ( Karen Warren / 29-95 )
The Southern Fried Quail from Bandera, Texas, house biscuit, cream gravy and cane syrup served at Roost in the Montrose. ( Karen Warren / 29-95 )
59. Roost
Chef Kevin Naderi’s super-casual little Montrose spot has the feel of a basement rec room and the kitchen chops of a smart Gulf Coast bistro. The menu’s short, and it changes every 3 weeks or so to reflect what’s good and available, but count on some fine vegetable dishes (roast cauliflower deeply flavored with miso and bonito flakes; local tomatoes with burrata and a basil dressing), as well as clean-tasting, thoughtful fish, meat and fowl. Among the revolving hits: Gulf fish of the day with tzatziki sauce (a middle-Eastern nod to Naderi’s Persian roots), duck with a clever rye-bread panzanella salad, and terrific fried quail on a lard biscuit with jumpy cream gravy and a jot of Steen’s. Small, sensibly priced wine list, too. This is one of those happy finds that seems destined to just get better with time.
Cuisine: American
Entree price range: $$
Where: 1972 Fairview St.
Phone: 713-523-7667
Web: facebook.com/iloveroost
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