Chef Kevin Naderi’s super-casual little Montrose spot has the feel of a basement rec room and the kitchen chops of a smart Gulf Coast bistro. The menu’s short, and it changes every 3 weeks or so to reflect what’s good and available, but count on some fine vegetable dishes (roast cauliflower deeply flavored with miso and bonito flakes; local tomatoes with burrata and a basil dressing), as well as clean-tasting, thoughtful fish, meat and fowl. Among the revolving hits: Gulf fish of the day with tzatziki sauce (a middle-Eastern nod to Naderi’s Persian roots), duck with a clever rye-bread panzanella salad, and terrific fried quail on a lard biscuit with jumpy cream gravy and a jot of Steen’s. Small, sensibly priced wine list, too. This is one of those happy finds that seems destined to just get better with time.
Entree price range: $$
Where: 1972 Fairview St.