Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 56. Au Petit Paris

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Au Petit Paris

56. Au Petit Paris
Two French chefs, Eric LeGros and Dominique Bocquier, turn out a cautious, conservative menu of beloved-by-Americans classics in a homey Montrose cottage. The food is neither exciting nor modestly priced, but at its best, it can be both impeccable and deeply satisfying. Best of show lately are the silky foie gras torchon veined with gelled Sauternes, and the stirring beef cheek, rich and deeply tender, in a luminous reduction that sings of mirepoix. The chive-laced potato mousseline on the side should be declared a controlled substance. Dessert might be a tart lemon cream puff, and the wine list, although a bit sketchy, is comfortingly French.
Cuisine: French
Entree price range: $$$
Where: 2048 Colquitt St.
Phone: 713-524-7070
Web: aupetitparisrestaurant.com

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