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Virgie’s

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Virgie's Bar-B-Que's pork ribs and sausage served with beans and potato salad Wednesday, July 2, 2008, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )

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Virgie's Bar-B-Que's sliced beef sandwich dressed with fresh onion, pickles and home made sauce shown with cole slaw Wednesday, July 2, 2008, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )

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Pitmaster Adrian Handsborough in front of the store his father built in the 1960s. Alison Cook: Chronicle

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53. Virgie’s
On a semi-rural stretch of Gessner, turn in at the sign of the pig in a jaunty blue neckerchief for Adrian Handsborough’s serious pecan-and-oaked smoked meats. Satellite items are done in a sweet East Texas style here, from the sauce to the mashed-potato salad, horseradish-spiked slaw and itty-bitty baked beans. More rewardingly savory are Handsborough’s sunny-natured hefty ribs, smoked to the bone; or his melting fatty-side brisket; or the zippy pork links, rough-textured and red peppery, with a snap to their casings. The prim setting was hand-fashioned from the grocery store once run by Handsborough’s mother, the Virgie invoked by the name.
Cuisine: Barbecue
Entree price range: $
Where: 5535 N. Gessner Road
Phone: 713-466-6525
Web: virgiesbbq.com

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