Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 52. El Tiempo

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El Tiempo

52. El Tiempo
Only the very steep prices keep this fajita-and-mixed-grill stalwart, owned by the Laurenzo family of once-upon-a-Ninfa’s fame, from placing higher on the list. But it’s well worth an occasional splurge for the most sumptuous parillada experience in the city, in which the wood-grilled meats and shellfish arrive on fetching tabletop charcoal cookers. The salsas and sides show the Laurenzo stamp of excellence. The frozen margaritas are lethal. Want to spend less? Opt for Tex-Mex standards like crab quesadillas or potato-and-cheese flautas. The patio always feels like a party. Sometimes a very, very loud one.
Cuisine: Tex-Mex
Entree price range: $$-$$$
Where: 3130 Richmond Ave.
Phone: 713-807-1600
Web: eltiempocantina.com

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