Feast
Crackling pig's head with roasted potatoes at Feast.
Marrow bone service at Feast. Photo by Alison Cook
Pig's-ear Cake with pear relish at Feast.
Haggis with neeps and tatties at Feast Restaurant. Photo by J. C. Reid.
Pig's-ear cake with pear relish at Feast.
Scallops St. Jacques at Feast.
Feast's Pork cheek entree with red cabbage and roasted potatoes Friday, May 16, 2008, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )
Dandelion green salad Friday, May 16, 2008, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )
Bubble and Squeak with suet-crusted tongue and brain pie at Feast.
Feast's Skate Wing Salad photographed Friday, May 16, 2008, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )
Railway Pudding with creme Anglaise at Feast restaurant.
Spotted Dick, a dessert from Feast Friday, May 16, 2008, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )
Exmoor toasts wtih white anchovy and clotted cream at Feast.
James Silk (along with his wife, Meagan Silk, and chef/co-owner Richard Knight) prepare for their meet and greet, Monday, March 24, 2008, at their new restaurant, Feast, 219 Westheimer. ( Karen Warren / Chronicle )
Claire Carusa, a server, uncorks bottles of wine as she and the owners James and Meagan Silk, and Chef Richard Knight) prepare for their meet and greet, Monday, March 24, 2008 at Feast, 219 Westheimer. ( Karen Warren / Chronicle )
Chef Richard Knight works on creating a meal for a meet and greet, with his fellow co-owner, Meagan Silk (right), Monday, March 24, 2008, at their new restaurant, Feast, 219 Westheimer. ( Karen Warren / Chronicle )
Chef Richard Knight pulls herbs out of the herb garden, as he (and co-owners Meagan and James Silk) prepare for a meet and greet, Monday, March 24, 2008. ( Karen Warren / Chronicle )
The exterior of Feast, a new restaurant owned by James and Meagan Silk, and chef Richard Knight, Monday, March 24, 2008. ( Karen Warren / Chronicle )
Feast owners Co-Chef James Silk, top left, Megan Silk, top right, and Co-Chef Richard Knight Friday, May 16, 2008, in Houston. ( Nick de la Torre / Chronicle )
Chef Richard Knight of Feast with uncooked haggis. Photo by J. C. Reid.
5. Feast
Few local restaurants have the capacity to keep surprising even loyal fans. Yet Houston’s groundbreaking nose-to-tail restaurant does exactly that with its constantly revolving menu, wowing the adventurous with an unfamiliar species of Gulf fish; its roasted collar propped up like a Chardin still life; or coaxing pig cheeks into a strange delight called Bath Chaps. Co-chefs James Silk and Richard Knight weave enough comforts into their archival British and European repertoire to soothe the cautious eater, too, from cassoulet to Cock-a-leekie, a splendidly creamy chicken dish. They have made the admirable (and locally rare) commitment to use only meats that have been humanely raised, and among their reliable staples are definitive versions of crispy pork belly and calf’s liver with bacon. The Old World wine list is both personal and affordable. Even the small touches are worth celebrating, from the house-made bread and the delightful chicken-skin cracklings, to the Exmoor Toasts of anchovy and clotted cream, one of Houston’s best bites. Silk’s wife, Meghan, runs the front of the friendly old Craftsman-style Montrose house with warmth and humor. In a world full of formulaic claptrap, there’s not a restaurant quite like it anywhere.
Cuisine: British
Entree price range: $$-$$$
Where: 219 Westheimer Road
Phone: 713-529-7788
Web: feasthouston.com
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