Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 41. Goode Company Seafood

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Goode Company Seafood

41. Goode Company Seafood
This reliable, well-run staple of Gulf Coast seafood cookery is a local treasure. Jim Goode was a pioneer in combining the ethnic and cultural influences at play in our cuisine, whether they sprang from Mexico or Louisiana, the fisherman’s Gulf Coast or the cowboy’s campfire. His son Levi is carrying on the tradition. Everything from the mesquite-grilled shrimp with salsa verde and avocado to the well-made fried platters and po-boys are worth a try here. So are crawfish mined with dried red chile pods in season; or carefully handled raw oysters from the new Texas appellation reefs; or the classic Campechana cocktail of shrimp and crab in jumpy pico de gallo. Garlic-buttered baguettes, the fine fresh-cut fries and the diminutive jambalaya empanadas prove this stylized fishing camp cares about even the small stuff.
Cuisine: Seafood, Cajun/creole
Entree price range: $$-$$$
Where: 2621 Westpark Dr.
Phone: 713-523-7154
Web: goodecompany.com

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