Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 40. Que Huong

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Que Huong

40. Que Huong
The Vietnamese menu sprawls to 344 items at the Le family’s plain, friendly Alief restaurant. Not every item is well-executed, but the many highlights make this place a blast for a big multi-course feast or even a solitary lunch of the #119 crushed-rice plate, decorated with a high-flying frizzled fried egg and a shattery package of fried tofu skin stuffed with delicate shrimp forcemeat. The dips and sauces that escort many dishes here are complex, many-splendored potions. They meet their match in such dishes as roast cornish hen with sticky rice cakes; wonderful five-spiced fried chicken; or the partially de-boned frogs legs with hot chile and lemon grass. Whether you’re savoring minced beef wrapped in wild betel leaves or marveling over the modest size of your bill, Que Huong is the sort of place that proves a workaday restaurant can thrill.
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Entree price range: $-$$
Where: 8200 Wilcrest Dr.
Phone: 281-495-2814
Web: phoquehuong.com

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