Milanese chef Maurizio Ferrarese has brought this downtown hotel restaurant back onto the radar with his disciplined Italian cooking. He’s a classicist with a few modern tricks up his sleeve. His housemade pastas can be excellent; they change seasonally, but look for things like paccheri with spicy little lamb meatballs or elegant gnocchi with bacon, shrimp and tomato. He’s wonderful with meats (veal osso buco with a lacy-crisp cake of saffron risotto; lamb chop and shank; letter-perfect Milanese), and he can reel out a deep, deceptively simple soup like a puree of caramelized salsify. Caring service, a smart wine list and progressive desserts by Adam Kieschnick all make for easeful grown-up dining without fuss and circumstance.
Entree price range: $$$$
Where: 1300 Lamar St.