Such a handsome package, this earnestly green restaurant headed up by chef Randy Evans. He was among the first Houston chefs to source from regional farms and producers back when he was at Brennan’s. Here, in a serene modern setting anchored by a series of grids, Evans has free rein to write a menu as seasonal and local as he wants. The results aren’t always even, and I wish the lineup changed more often, but there are delights in the form of lilting daily soups, Southern-boy twists on Gulf shrimp and oysters, and desserts that actually take advantage of ripe Texas fruit. From summer’s vivid tomato salad “sundae” to winter’s boar chili, this is Gulf Coast cooking in its emergent modern guise.
Entree price range: $$$
Where: 2502 Algerian Way