Haven
Chef Randy Evans with his Black-eyed Pea Cabbage and Mushroom Stew with mini cornbread sticks at Haven. (Alan Warren, For the Chronicle)
Chef Randy Evans' Black-eyed Pea Cabbage and Mushroom Stew with mini cornbread sticks. (Alan Warren, For the Chronicle)
Strawberry Grouper with wilted red chard, and cucumber-chard relish at Haven. ( Karen Warren / Houston Chronicle )
At Haven: strawberry cake with strawberry ice cream
At Haven: deviled local farm eggs
At Haven: Parker House rolls with sea salt
At Haven: Farm egg and bacon sandwich with tomato salad.
38. Haven
Such a handsome package, this earnestly green restaurant headed up by chef Randy Evans. He was among the first Houston chefs to source from regional farms and producers back when he was at Brennan’s. Here, in a serene modern setting anchored by a series of grids, Evans has free rein to write a menu as seasonal and local as he wants. The results aren’t always even, and I wish the lineup changed more often, but there are delights in the form of lilting daily soups, Southern-boy twists on Gulf shrimp and oysters, and desserts that actually take advantage of ripe Texas fruit. From summer’s vivid tomato salad “sundae” to winter’s boar chili, this is Gulf Coast cooking in its emergent modern guise.
Cuisine: American
Entree price range: $$$
Where: 2502 Algerian Way
Phone: 713-581-6101
Web: havenhouston.com
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