Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 37. Samba Grille

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Samba Grille

37. Samba Grille
One of 2011’s biggest surprises was the facility with which downtown’s only Brazilian-style rodizio restaurant transformed itself into an a la carte restaurant serving accomplished contemporary South American cuisine. Chef David Guerrero, a young native of Ecuador, brings touches of crisp modern technique to everything from tamarind-glazed pork belly to sea-bass carpaccio lit up with black sea salt, bright ginger-celery leche de tigre and salsa chilaca of red onion, chile and lime. There are nicely done steaks for the conservative diner, and riveting grilled beef-heart anticucho skewers for the bold. In a stylish modern room, even a salad (Solerito, with favas, crushed choclo and aji vinaigrette) or dessert (pionono cake rolls with goat cheese dulce de leche) can wow. An eclectic wine list features some interesting South American bottles. Watch out, Corduas, this place is on its way up.
Cuisine: South American
Entree price range: $$$-$$$$
Where: 530 Texas Ave.
Phone: 713-343-1180
Web: sambagrillehouston.com

 

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