For a decade, Anita Jaisinghani’s colorful, contemporary restaurant has defined the upper end of Houston’s increasingly strong range of Indo-Pakistani cuisine. It still does, although her attention to upstart casual sibling Pondicheri has made it less reliable of late. Without the chef-owner’s eagle eye in the kitchen, occasional weary textures and expensive overcooked entrees can happen, or even a sea bass beyond its prime. But Indika remains an important, inspirational spot in everything from its creative cocktail menu to such triumphs as a beet soup vibrating with ginger or an appetizer of masala-warmed goat brains as gentle and fluffy as scrambled eggs. Like Da Marco, Indika still matters — but not as much as it could or should.
Entree price range: $$$
Where: 516 Westheimer Road