Indika
Photograph of Indika chef Anita Jaisinghani's Turkey Biryani, a rice dish made with dark turkey meat, at Indika. ( Karen Warren / Houston Chronicle )
Anita Jaisinghani, of Indika. ( Mayra Beltran / Chronicle )
Grilled snapper with a spinach and fenugreek sauce and khichiri and pickled carrots at Indika. (Eric Kayne/For the Chronicle)
Lamb chop with a lamb curry with cashews and cardamom, okra and mustard potatoes at Indika. (Eric Kayne/For the Chronicle)
Beet soup with paneer cutlet at Indika. (Eric Kayne/For the Chronicle)
Grilled snapper with a spinach and fenugreek sauce and khichiri and pickled carrots at Indika. (Eric Kayne/For the Chronicle)
36. Indika
For a decade, Anita Jaisinghani’s colorful, contemporary restaurant has defined the upper end of Houston’s increasingly strong range of Indo-Pakistani cuisine. It still does, although her attention to upstart casual sibling Pondicheri has made it less reliable of late. Without the chef-owner’s eagle eye in the kitchen, occasional weary textures and expensive overcooked entrees can happen, or even a sea bass beyond its prime. But Indika remains an important, inspirational spot in everything from its creative cocktail menu to such triumphs as a beet soup vibrating with ginger or an appetizer of masala-warmed goat brains as gentle and fluffy as scrambled eggs. Like Da Marco, Indika still matters — but not as much as it could or should.
Cuisine: Indian
Entree price range: $$$
Where: 516 Westheimer Road
Phone: 713-984-1725
Web: indikausa.com
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