Robert del Grande, one of the godfathers of late 20th-century Southwestern cuisine at his now-shuttered Cafe Annie, seems to function more as restaurateur than chef these days. His glamorous multi-concept project on Post Oak (three distinct menus; six varied spaces) may not have the cultural or culinary importance that Cafe Annie did, but it’s lots of fun, the people-watching is prime, and the food — while uneven — has some genuine high points. Worth seeking out are the witty smoked oysters, the grilled squab with foie gras butter and a seared avocado salad with queso fresco and radish. Red chile-daubed rabbit with red mole enchiladas are vintage del Grande, as is the pork and green chile stew from the Bar Annie menu. The wine list is as intelligently chosen as ever, but the prices are kinder than they were at Cafe Annie.
Entree price range: $$$$
Where: 1800 Post Oak Blvd.