Branch Water Tavern
At Branch Water Tavern: chicken pot pie.
At Branch Water Tavern: chicken fried oysters
At Branch Water Tavern: matzoh ball soup
At Branch Water Tavern: Sticky toffee pudding
The chicken fried oysters at the Branch Water Tavern. (Dave Rossman Photo)
The pork rillettes biscuits at the Branch Water Tavern. (Dave Rossman Photo)
The pan-roasted chicken at the Branch Water Tavern. (Dave Rossman Photo)
The pan-roasted chicken at the Branch Water Tavern. (Dave Rossman Photo)
The venison plate at the Branch Water Tavern. (Dave Rossman Photo)
Comfortable chairs sit between the dining room and the bar at the Branch Water Tavern. (Dave Rossman Photo)
The crispy skinned red snapper at the Branch Water Tavern. (Dave Rossman Photo)
Evan Turner, a certified sommelier and manager of the beverage program at Branch Water Tavern, pours a glass of wine for a customer.Credit: Ralph Smith
Evan Turner, partner and sommelier of Branch Water Tavern, holding a "Slick of This" cocktail he developed for the Chron's story on Tar Bar cocktails.Credit: Kimberly Park
The burger at Branch Water Tavern is the restaurant's most popular menu item. Credit: Kimberly Park
David Grossman, chef/owner of Branch Water Tavern.Credit: Kimberly Park
Evan Turner of Branch Water Tavern creates hot buttered bourbon.
32. Branch Water Tavern
When disciplined and exacting young chef David Grossman is in attendance, this restaurant is one of the best exemplars of modern American bistro cooking in town. Such commonplaces as a chicken or a salmon dish can emerge with a quiet verve and beautiful textures: the local pastured chicken crisp of skin, say, and anchored by caramelized root vegetables lightened with pillows of lemon-scented ricotta gnocchi. Or the salmon skin flash-seared, its interior satin, its sauce a light-on-its feet kimchee emulsion well-suited to the Houston palate. The details are careful, from the bread program to a killer wedge salad to a justly celebrated sticky toffee pudding dessert. But the wine list has lost some of its original flair, the short menu stays relatively static, and when Grossman is not on duty, oversalting and other glitches can keep the restaurant from its potential to rank higher on this list.
Cuisine: American
Entree price range: $$$
Where: 510 Shepherd Dr.
Phone: 713-863-7777
Web: branchwatertavern.com
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