Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 23. Huynh

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Huynh

23. Huynh
Don’t look for the usual epic Vietnamese/Chinese menu at this sweetly contemporary family-run spot east of downtown. The menu is smartly edited and the Vietnamese soups, noodles, rice plates and stir-fries have a careful, homespun appeal. Mama Huynh’s handmade rice-noodle wrappers, their texture a cool gossamer satin, set the restaurant apart. Have them rolled around simple chargrilled pork and greenery (banh uot thit nuong), or in any of the ban cuon dishes. (The one that weaves the wrappers with grilled pork and fried shallot on a bed of fresh greens reads like some ethereal free-form lasagna.)  Duck salad, duck vermicelli soup with fermented bamboo and chile-zapped lemongrass tofu all sparkle.
Cuisine: Vietnamese/Chinese
Entree price range: $-$$
Where: 912 St. Emanuel St.
Phone: 713-224-8964
Web: huynhrestauranthouston.com

 

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