Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 22. Gatlin’s

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22. Gatlin’s
This sunny little Heights cottage delivers consistently fine barbecue in a city where ‘cue consistency is hard to come by. The Gatlin family radiates warmth, and their Louisiana roots kick-start such extras as the vinegar-popped sauce and the seriously dirty rice. A fatty-side brisket sandwich here (be sure to request it that way), groans with smoky and meltingly supple beef on a butter-toasted bun. It’s practically a religious experience. Barky, meaty pork spareribs tend to fall away from the bone and links have a pleasing snap to their casings. Don’t miss Mary Gatlin’s peach cobbler. And don’t come if you’re in a hurry. It’s not that kind of place. That’s part of what makes Gatlin’s so good.
Cuisine: Barbecue
Entree price range: $
Where: 1221 W. 19th St.
Phone: 281-804-4555


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