Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 21. Pico’s

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Pico's Mex Mex

21. Pico’s
The riches of Houston’s Mexican heritage are well-expressed at Arnaldo Richards’ stalwart favorite, which has remained remarkably consistent and satisfying over its 27-year lifespan. Richards has always celebrated the more classically Mexican side of our complex Tex-Mex foodways, so that even his nachos Jorge find themselves adorned with Yucatecan-spiced cochita pibil and magenta crescents of pickled onion. The specials chalkboard is a constant source of pleasure, from seasonal live softshell crabs in a filmy, garlicked batter to the rich, earthy tapestry of mole dishes that appears each December. If you want to thank the guy who introduced the city to well-made, individual shaken premium margaritas, Arnaldo’s the man. And his Top Shelf lineup remains top shelf.
Cuisine: Tex-Mex, Mexican
Entree price range: $$
Where: 5941 Bellaire Blvd.
Phone: 713-662-8383
Web: picos.net

 

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