Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 20. Da Marco

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Da Marco

20. Da Marco
I never thought I would live to see the day that Marco Wiles’ ambitious Italian spot would slip this far in my affections. But a recent dinner at which 5 of 6 courses were flawed — some deeply — persuaded me that the restaurant that introduced intelligently edited Italian fare to Houston may be running on autopilot. When it’s good, Da Marco can still deliver sophisticated and simple dishes and wonderful Italian wines with the kind of full-bore, super-attentive service that Houstonians tend to enjoy. When it’s not so good, the once pristine branzino can emerge overcooked, with inedible salty spinach on the side; or a slab of slightly overcooked barramundi may arrive sporting an irrelevant shrimp on top. Et tu, Marco?
Cuisine: Italian
Entree price range: $$$-$$$$
Where: 1520 Westheimer
Phone: 713-807-8857
Web: damarcohouston.com

 

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