Kata Robata Sushi & Grill
Dried short rib with broccoli, mizuna and toasted nori at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
Uni and salmon with quail egg at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
Dried short rib with broccoli, mizuna and toasted nori at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
Fresh soft shell crab and barbecue salmon roll at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
Foie gras at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
Miso Gyoza with black sesame paste, kim chi powder and edamame at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
At Kata Robata: negiri sushi.
At Kata Robata: negiri sushi with fried eel bones
At Kata Robata: negiri sushi and squid with shiso and sea salt
At Kata Robata: miso-crusted bone marrow with bonita flakes.
At Kata Robata: giant clam with sour cherry puree.
At Kata Robata: black sesame panna cotta dessert
At Kata Robata: white chocolate namelaka dessert
At Kata Robata: miso-crusted bone marrow with bonita flakes.
At Kata Robata: shima aji tataki
At Kata Robata: seared scallop with butternut squash bisque
At Kata Robata: 72-hour sous vide Texas akausushi short rib with cilantro ginger pesto and cherry tomato
At Kata Robata: toro, bluefin and goldeneye snapper
At Kata Robata: a sashimi platter
At Kata Robata: toro, bluefin and goldeneye snapper
Foie gras & eel terrine with pickled apples & shiitake crumbles, Kata Robata. credit: Alison Cook
Charred rice cake with smoked salmon, salmon skin & togarashi lardo, Kata Robata. credit: Alison Cook
Tempura of octopus confited in bone marrow, with wasabi leaf & nori aioli, Kata Robata. credit: Alison Cook
Tempura of fresh wasabi leaf with bone marrow powder & beet chip, Kata Robata. credit: Alison Cook
The Live Atlantic Scallop with Cranberry, Mizuna and Cucumber Pickles at the Umami dinner at Kata Robata Sunday Dec. 18,2011.(Dave Rossman/For the Chronicle)
The Live Atlantic Scallop with Cranberry, Mizuna and Cucumber Pickles at the Umami dinner at Kata Robata Sunday Dec. 18,2011.(Dave Rossman/For the Chronicle)
The Live Atlantic Scallop with Cranberry, Mizuna and Cucumber Pickles at the Umami dinner at Kata Robata Sunday Dec. 18,2011.(Dave Rossman/For the Chronicle)
The Tora-Fugu(Blow Fish) from Shimonoseki & Akimo(Monk Fish Pate) Ponzu and Wasbina at the Umami dinner at Kata Robata Sunday Dec. 18,2011.(Dave Rossman/For the Chronicle)
At Kata Robata the Flounder Fish and Chips are served on the whole flounder body with the chips served in a glass. (Chris Curry / For the Chronicle)
The Chawanmushi with Uni, a wild egg custard, comes served in a small ceramic container at Kata Robata. (Chris Curry / For the Chronicle)
The Aji Tataki comes served on ice with a fish tail at Kata Robata. (Chris Curry / For the Chronicle)
Food story for the Good Life at Kata Robata, 3600 Kirby Drive. Chef Manabu Horiuchi, aka "Hori," is responsible for making Kata Robata the town's hottest sushi bar. Aji Tataki Sayori--Needle Fish
Friday
3/26/10 (Craig H. Hartley/For the Chronicle)
Food story for the Good Life at Kata Robata, 3600 Kirby Drive. Chef Manabu Horiuchi, aka "Hori," is responsible for making Kata Robata the town's hottest sushi bar. Sea Urchin Pasta
Friday
3/26/10 (Craig H. Hartley/For the Chronicle)
Food story for the Good Life at Kata Robata, 3600 Kirby Drive. Chef Manabu Horiuchi, aka "Hori," is responsible for making Kata Robata the town's hottest sushi bar. Foie Gras--3 ways
Friday
3/26/10 (Craig H. Hartley/For the Chronicle)
Food story for the Good Life at Kata Robata, 3600 Kirby Drive. Chef Manabu Horiuchi, aka "Hori," is responsible for making Kata Robata the town's hottest sushi bar. Chef Manabu Horiuchi, aka "Hori," trims blue fin tuna.
Friday
3/26/10 (Craig H. Hartley/For the Chronicle)
Horiuchi Manabu, executive chef at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
Chef Hori-san presides over the sushi bar Sunday, November 8, 2009 at the new Kata Robata at 3600 Kirby in Houston. (Chris Curry / For the Chronicle)
Horiuchi Manabu, executive chef at Kata Robata Sushi and Grill Tuesday, Dec. 14, 2010, in Houston. ( Johnny Hanson / Houston Chronicle )
2. Kata Robata
There is no Houston restaurant that inspires such sharp anticipation in me as this elevated sushi bar where chef Manabu Horiuchi (“Hori-san” to his acolytes) plies his impeccable trade. His carefully sourced, beautifully handled fish and shellfish rival the best anywhere, from shiny-skinned mackerel to crunchy giant clam. The gently sticky vinegared rice and nigiri sushi construction stay right on point, and the sashimi platter is a reliable thrill. Not to mention that up-and-coming chef Mark Gabriel Medina handles the hot foods, including the charcoal-fired robata items, with growing aplomb. (Yes, he has kept the smart modernist legacy of consulting chef Seth Siegel Gardner alive.) Experience the spectrum by dining early in the week, sitting at the sushi bar and requesting an omakase tasting chosen by the chefs. The astonishments just keep coming. A curl of sea urchin on a “cracker” made of whole infant sardine-lings called shirasu. A cool trapezoid of squid nigiri glowing pale green from an underlying shiso leaf. A trough of bone marrow crusted in miso-laced panko and enriched with bonito flakes, luminous grains of pickled mustard seeds picking up the flavors. Even the cocktail, sake and wine program (now with Gruner Veltliner!) have found their stride. Don’t expect fine-dining service. Do expect very fine dining indeed.
Cuisine: Japanese
Entree price range: $$-$$$
Where: 3600 Kirby Dr.
Phone: 713-526-8858
Website: katarobata.com
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