19. Great W’Kana
Chef-owner Sunil Srivavasta’s modest, bright-hued Stafford bistro makes another compelling argument for the impressive breadth and depth of Houston’s Indo-Pakistani cuisine. The place may be understaffed and BYOB, but the flavors and textures on an anything-but-ordinary Indian menu compensate for any rough operational edges. The aromatic goat biryani, cooked dum style under a dramatic pastry dome, is jaw-dropping both to see and to eat. From smoky, gingered black lentils cooked 15 hours over charcoal to the sunniest baby eggplant mined with sharp little bursts of kalonji (wild onion seeds), this is marvelous food, subtly delineated without being watered down for American tastes. And that Houston-friendly avocado naan — chile-spiked and irresistible — gives a promise of interesting things to come.
Entree price range: $$
Where: 11720 West Airport Blvd.