Chef-owner Irma Galvan’s colorful magpie universe, paved floor to ceiling with knickknacks and thingamabobs, is one of the most delightful dining environments imaginable. Her homestyle Mexican breakfasts and plate lunches are further cause for rejoicing. Pristine guacamole, fruit-packed lemonade and flavor-trippy frijoles a la charra are among the brilliant details that show Galvan’s dedication to quality. Order the enchiladas Mexicanas (queso fresco in a resonant red chile gravy) or the major-league pork tamales and you’ll understand why the James Beard Foundation named Irma’s one of its America’s Classics. Some folks have problems with the oral menu and the prices. I pity them deeply.
Entree price range: $$
Where: 22 N. Chenevert St.