Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 13 Dolce Vita

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Dolce Vita

13. Dolce Vita (temporarily closed)
It has had its ups and downs, but Marco Wiles’ pizzeria once again turns out the best pies in town. The crusts are high-crowned and yeasty, with ample char and chew. Toppings show a chefly touch, from robiola cheese with melted leeks and cubes of pancetta to fresh-shucked tiny clams with roasted cherry tomatoes. Baby artichokes or rapini greens, delicately flash fried, are among the small plates that speak to vegetarian and omnivore alike. Elegantly simple pastas, a lively Italian wine list and a big covered terrace add to the fun. Wiles changed the pizza game in Houston with this restaurant — my current favorite of his three spots, including the more ambitious Da Marco.
Cuisine: Italian, pizza
Entree price range: $$
Where: 500 Westheimer
Phone: 713-520-8222
Web: dolcevitahouston.com

 

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