Alison Cook’s top 100: No. 12 Melange Creperie

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Melange Creperie

12. Melange Creperie
There’s a lot to be said for focusing on one thing and doing it supremely well. Ask Sean Carroll, the personable ringmaster of the Melange Creperie cart that operates out of a parking lot on Westheimer and Taft most mornings, dispensing the best crepes Houston has ever tasted. It’s not just Carroll’s painstaking technique, ladling and raking the batter, scraping away the excess, flipping and browning the thinny-thin pancake until it’s brown and crisp and lacy at its delicate edges. It’s his ingenious fillings that elevate his work to a higher plane. Using local and seasonal ingredients (some from how own garden), plus ideas borrowed from Houston’s wild range of ethnic cuisines, he comes up with such notions as an Ethiopian Wat crepe, in which a richly caramelized mix of tomato and onion meets dusky-hot spices and a cool, finishing touch of queso fresco cut with buttermilk to mimic an Ethiopian cheese. Or a crepe of cream cheese and tingly six-pepper jelly with whispery leaves of fried wonton tucked inside. I wake up Wednesday, when the weekly specials change, wondering what surprises he’ll have in store. Has he made a lovely tart citrus curd? If so, I feel compelled to order it with the always-available fresh banana. (Yes, customizing is encouraged, part of the cart’s considerable charm). Carroll has opened a second cart that works the Heights in front of Stella Sola, and he’s always at the City Hall Farmers Market on Wednesdays at noon, but for the full effect, the Westheimer cart with Carroll presiding can’t be beat. There’s no seating, and it’s cash only, but for $5 to $7 a crepe, it’s a fabulous deal.
Cuisine: Crepes
Entree price range: $
Montrose: 403 Westheimer
Heights: 1001 Studewood St.
Web: twitter.com/melangecreperie

 

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